Miles traveled today: 178.8
Total miles traveled: 1726.0
Flash. Crash. Repeat.
Have I mentioned the crazy weather we’re having out here? For the third day in a row, I encountered thunderstorms. And not just any old thunderstorms – big, dangerous ones. With lots of lightning and thunder and – worst of all – hail. As I was leaving the restaurant I ate dinner in this evening, the manager was welcoming an elderly couple. “Looks like rain again!” the husband said, pointing out the ominous sky. “I know,” the manager replied. “Feels like we’re in Washington or Oregon.” I stopped dead in my tracks and wheeled around, ready to correct him. Because this is nothing like the weather we get back home. It rains there a lot, sure. But it’s a gentle rain most times. A soft rain. Often, no more than a drizzle or mist. It’s certainly nothing like these severe, car-denting hailstorms and lightning that flashes constantly, every few seconds. Check out this video I shot last night from the motel parking lot.
Free Ice Water!
My first stop today, after a more leisurely morning than I’ve had lately, was Wall Drug Store in Wall, South Dakota. This might sound odd if you’re unfamiliar with the place, but Wall Drug is more than just a drug store: it’s an institution and a semi-famous tourist attraction. Opened in 1931, the proprietor was struggling with the business until he hit upon the idea to advertise free ice water to travelers on their way to the newly-opened Mount Rushmore, 60 miles away. The idea worked, and the enterprise has been thriving ever since.
Wall Drug is both enormous and kitschy, with a cowboy/Old West theme. It’s comprised of several different “businesses” all under one roof – clothing stores, art galleries, gift shops, a restaurant, even an arcade – kind of like a shopping mall but more intimate. When we lived in South Dakota, we’d head out to Wall Drug every so often on our way to the Badlands, which – sure enough – was my next destination. I bought a pack of buffalo jerky to snack on, just like old times.
What A Nice Butte
From Wall, I drove 21 miles to Badlands National Park. I love the Badlands – this 244,000-acre preserve of eroded buttes, pinnacles and spires offers breathtaking scenery. The red-striped rocks take on different appearances depending on the time of day, amount of sunlight and shadow, and weather conditions, so the whole landscape feels like it’s in a constant state of flux. I drove at a leisurely pace, stopping often at different viewpoints and overlooks. I did quite a bit of hiking, too – if you only see the Badlands from your car, you’re missing out, because there are numerous trails that lead around the various rock formations, and you are welcome to climb them (at your own peril, of course). It was pretty hot in the sun, but a nice breeze was blowing at times, and thunderclouds were stacking up to the west. As soon as I got on the interstate heading west, back toward my motel, a squall line moved through and hail started pelting my windshield so hard I thought it was going to crack. Everybody on the freeway pulled over and waited for the storm to pass, which fortunately took only five minutes. It was something, though! I got video footage from inside my car but I’m having trouble uploading, so I’ll post that another time.
I can’t help but marvel, once again, over the beauty of this area. I liked it as a teenager, even though my parents complained about the brutal winters. They are harsh – one year (I think it was 1985) we had a blizzard on my birthday. Which is April 27th. In some parts of the country, it’s already summertime by then! And that first winter, back in ’83, it dropped down to -27 one night. This is definitely a land of fierce extremes, and it can be very punishing if you aren’t prepared for it. But the magnificent beauty and abundance of natural attractions – not to mention free ice water a mere 55 miles to the east! – make it worthwhile. I’ve often wondered if I could ever picture myself living in Rapid City again, and after returning, the verdict is in: yes, I could. I’m not saying I will – I love the Pacific Northwest far too much – but I wouldn’t rule it out if the circumstances were exactly right.
The Pluses and Minuses of Traveling Solo
I am having the time of my life on this trip – and it’s not even half over yet! The best part about traveling solo is, you can do whatever you want, whenever you want. Which is pretty much also the best thing about being divorced. If I want to see the world’s largest ball of twine, there’s nobody nagging at me about sticking to the schedule. The downside to traveling by yourself? A lack of human companionship, which is pretty much also the worst thing about being divorced. Everywhere I’ve gone the past few days – Crazy Horse, Mount Rushmore, the Badlands – I have seen nothing but families and couples. There were so many parent-and-kid combos today, I actually got a little pang in my heart because I never got to do that with my family, except for one nice weekend getaway to Crater Lake a year before we divorced. And the families with small kids? They’re the luckiest of all. I hope they realize that. I haven’t seen another solo person, anywhere, and I’ve been looking. Oddly enough, I’ve become the guy who other couples ask to take their picture. Maybe I have a trusting face (or perhaps it’s because I’m not chasing after small children). I’ve lost track of how many strangers I’ve photographed.
I’m not complaining, though. I’ve always been comfortable by myself, which is why when dinnertime rolled around I decided to walk across the street to Perkins, a sit-down restaurant that’s kind of like a Denny’s or Marie Callender’s. You know the type: they all serve breakfast all day, sell pies, and have cash registers up front when you’re ready to pay. Some people might balk at eating alone, but I have been trying to avoid fast food and felt like a decent, sit-down dinner for once, so I went. I have never been so excited to see a salad in my life. I’m not saying the chicken fried steak I ordered was any healthier than fast food, but it hit the spot, and aside from the jerky and a breakfast scone I hadn’t eaten all day and was starving.
And now, sadly, my time in South Dakota is up. I will miss it, and I’m already vowing to return someday – and I promise it won’t take me another 25 years. By the same token, today was the first day it felt like I was on vacation instead of a road trip, so it’s time to Ramble On and head east. Tomorrow will be my first full day of traveling since Billings.